By Laura Gil, Lao PDR
High in the mountains of Houaphanh province in the north of Lao People’s Democratic Republic in an area historically known for opium cultivation, farmers are creating a more secure and sustainable future with the cultivation of coffee.
“I get up at 4 am in harvesting season to pick the red berries which are taken to the processing plant,” 22-year-old Phuperp told the United Nations.
Phuperp comes from a family of farmers which grows corn, rice, and legumes and pumpkins, but her favourite crop is coffee.
It can be cultivated without the need to clear trees which helps prevent the deforestation of land and crucially, at least for Phuperp, it grows best in the shade.
“If I could, I’d only harvest coffee, as it allows me to work in the shade, out of the strong sun,” she said.
Since 2016, the UN Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC), in partnership with the Government of Lao PDR, has worked to promote alternative livelihoods for local farmers in Houaphanh and other provinces particularly affected by the cultivation of poppy, from which opium is made.
Switching to coffee cultivation has transformed Phuerp’s community. “Growing opium kept the community stuck in poverty,” she said. “With coffee, we’re building a future.”
More than a drink
Phuerp brought her coffee, which according to its tasting notes is “floral, apple, chocolate and sweet” to United Nations House in Vientiane, the capital of Lao PDR, where she served a cup to UN Secretary-General António Guterres.
“Congratulations,” António Guterres said. Coffee takes a long time to grow, doesn’t it?”
Strengthening rural economies
Phuerp is part of the Vanmai Coffee Cooperative which represents 341 households of farmers cultivating 405 hectares of coffee across Houaphanh province.
Vanmai members are now beginning to build a legal, sustainable future in an area where farmers had often grown opium, which can be used to produce heroin and other illegal and legal drugs.
Guterres praised the cooperative’s success which has, demonstrated the role coffee can play in strengthening rural economies while addressing global challenges like poverty and drug trafficking.
New day
“Vanmai, meaning ‘new day’ in Lao, encapsulates the hope and resilience of these communities,” said Soutthida Soukthavone, UNODC alternative development expert.
The cooperative’s efforts have not only provided a sustainable livelihood for local farmers but also opened doors to international markets.
With over 230 tonnes of green coffee beans exported, the cooperative has secured long-term commercial partnerships, achieved Fairtrade certification, and is transitioning to organic production.
Women leading the way
The Vanmai Women’s Network was established in 2021 to increase women’s participation in the coffee business. The network manages initiatives like the Vanmai Coffee Cart at UN House in Vientiane, where the Secretary-General and Phuerp shared their coffee moment.
The cart, managed by women from the cooperative, demonstrates their growing role in decision-making, a shift from past practices where women had limited involvement in leadership.
Here, the seed-to-cup philosophy comes to life, with the coffee sold directly to customers, generating income that flows back to the farming communities.
“The Vanmai Coffee Cooperative is more than a business; it’s a testament to the power of alternative development,” said Sung Ho Hwang, UNODC’s head of office in Lao PDR.
“This coffee tells a story, a story of resilience, of partnership, and of hope. It shows us that, with the right support, communities can enter the licit market and create a better future for themselves and their children,” he added. By offering farmers a legal, profitable crop, it addresses the root causes of opium cultivation, poverty, isolation, and lack of opportunity.”
UNODC’s alternative development initiatives aim to promote legal economic dynamics and inclusive socioeconomic development in rural areas within Lao PDR and Myanmar, as well as Afghanistan, Bolivia, Colombia and Peru.
Guterres finished his cup of coffee alongside Phuerp, who with her weathered farmer’s hands still grasping her cup, flashed a quiet smile.
